The end of August is normally a great time to do The High Divide, but this year, our winter was so late, (we had snow in May), that it made for a really interesting trip.

We started out at about 9:00 and decided to go up the Heart Lake side first, knocking out the 5 mile section following the river. It was just a routine hike, gradually working our way up through the old growth fir and blueberry patches which were just about prime for the picking. There wasn’t much wildlife to be seen, but there were plenty of other hikers coming down from up above.

At the Sol Duc Campground we came across 4 mountain goats grazing near a group of tent that were set up. They let us get within 20 feet of them before strolling off. We walked a short ways away to refuel ourselves with some carbs before tackling the rocky stair case up to Heart Lake.

Shortly after the Sol Duc River campground we came across a marshy pond with some nearby peaks in the back ground. Gene wanted a picture so we stopped. Upon stepping off the trail we saw about 5 frogs jumping out of our way and into the pond. They were all over the place, probably a couple hundred lined the pool and everywhere you stepped they scramble to get out of the way. I believe that they were Cascades Frogs. Gene said that this is just a great big orgy pool for them.

Checking out the frogs

The approach to Heart Lake is a killer. If you aren’t used to it or aren’t prepared, it can really take you by surprise. Large rocky steps prevent you from half-stepping, forcing you to step all the way up or not at all. It’s something else.

Heart Lake outlet

Before long, though, you come up over a rise and there lies the lake, snow-fed and ice cold. Step over to the stream and splash your face, it feels awesome. From this level you cant see what gives the lake its name, but continue up the trail and looking down from above it’s obvious: It’s shaped like a heart.

It was above the lake that we  got the first taste of snow. climbing hils in the snow is bad enough, but this snow was melting just enough to make the first inch on the top soft and almost slushy. The going was slow and aggravating and we had at least 2 miles of this to look forward to.

Snow going

The divide itself is the apex of this hike. Running east-west it divides the Hoh and Sol Duc watersheds. Looking south you see Mt. Olympus and the mighty Blue Glacier. It’s truly amazing.

Mt Olympus

Finally after trudging through the snow we reached the top of the divide; It was all downhill from here. Past the spur to the top of Bogachiel Peak and past the junction to Hoh Lake you come to one heck of a series of switchbacks. There’s only about 3 of them but it’s steep as heck. Today it was covered with snow as well. Jerry, being the lightweight agile fellow that he is took off across the snow field and was at the first switchback when suddenly we heard a couple choice words from Gene along with the sound of canvas sliding on snow. I looked up and there he was, sliding down the hill, snow was flying to the sides of him like a Bayliner plowing through the water.

There was a moment of  ”Oh shit!”, but I quickly realized that he would reach the trail below if he kept going. He kept going. Jerry shouted out, “That’s one way to cut out the switchbacks”. I couldn’t think of anything funny to say, so I just watched helplessly, wishing I could have gotten this on film.

Here's the snow bank gene slid down

Well, he finally caught a tree and was hanging there about 3 or 4 feet over the trail below. We heard a whimper come from somewhere down below. Gene said it was a marmot, but we couldn’t be certain.

Once he regained his composure, took a mental inventory of his limbs and other assorted body parts that he might have left behind, we continued.  The only casualty was his sunglasses. There was no finding them in the thick brush and he decided to leave them behind.

Most of the remainder of the trail was clear. There were patches of snow above Deer Lake, however. Going downhill on the snow is MUCH more enjoyable than climbing it. We were running and sliding and having a good ol’ time when suddenly, we rounded a corner and there was a shapely young lady in a bikini up in the snow getting some sun. Naturally, when faced with the unexpected up in the mountains, all trace of suaveness escapes you and the best you can do is “Uh, hi.” Gene managed to get out a “Just do your thing…” and we continued on hurriedly.

The remainder of the trip was uneventful. We stopped at Deer Lake to refill some water bottles and then tackled the final stretch: about 3 miles down a rocky trail, picking our way over rocks and boulder that look like they’d be more at home on a river bottom. Gene, not used to this sort of thing was getting angry at the rocks. I could see it in his face, he HATED them. He swore that a few of them reached up through his boot and punctured the soles of his feet. We had to stop occasionally to let him calm himself.

Before long, though, we reached the falls and the throng of tourists ever present there, and quickly covered the last mile to the truck. Those beers tasted wonderful.

Full Album of the trip

The other day I took off early in the morning to scoot on up to Lake Angeles. The weather was perfect, I was the first one on the trail and I enjoyed the solitude as long as I could.

Once I hit the lake, (about 2500 foot elevation gain in 3.5 miles), I found a patch of sun, layed my head down on my backpack and woke up two and a half hours later. It felt so good.

I spent the rest of the day exploring around the lake, napping here and there and then found a nice out of the way spot to curl up for the night. It was about perfect.

The week before at work was insane. We had a Navy Blackhawk helicopter make an emergency landing at our heli pad and then the next day two inmates attempted to escape, taking one of my friends hostage while the other smashed though the fence forcing one of our officers to shoot him. The insanity that followed was draining to the body and soul. People were stepping up and doing jobs that normally don’t get done by staff. We were doing laundry, making meals, hauling trash… Lock downs aren’t all that fun. We work harder than ever keeping the place running.

I had three days off and spending those two up in the mountains was the best thing that I could have done.

Sunday night I got home and went with the family up to a friends house for a barbecue and fireworks. I showed the kids how to make a simple snare and played a lot of fetch with the dogs. Good times were had by all.

Monday the 4th was a rare day in this area. Fourth of July in Forks is almost ALWAYS spent in the rain. This year sunburns were a common sight. It was nice.

I showed up to work on my Monday surprisingly refreshed and ready to go. Things still aren’t completely back to normal, but I thrive on chaos. We own this.

Sunday, my friend Terry and I got out and did a quick morning hike before the Super Bowl. He had never done Pyramid Peak or experienced crossing the landslide up there, so we decided to truck on up there.

We reached to trailhead at 7:30, it was just getting light enough to see, and the weather was cold and wet, but not actually raining. It was more of a heavy fog. Regardless, we set off.

On the trail

The trail climbs steadily for the first 2 miles or so crossing a couple streams and eventually opens into the probably most exciting part of the hike. Sure the peak is awesome, but crossing this slide is  probably the most heart pumping part.

The first time I ever came upon this washout, I looked down, I looked up, the ground was dry and sloughing away as I was looking at it… I decided, since I was alone that I wouldn’t risk crossing it. The next time I went up there I had a few friends with me so that if one of us fell, the others could call for rescue. Today, due to the moisture, the ground was a bit more secure and I didn’t feel it was as risky as before. It was still quite an experience:

Shortly after the slide, the trail crosses a couple more little, easily crossed washouts and then turns upward, switchbacking right up to the top of the ridge. Once at the top of the ridge you cross in and out of the National forest boundary a couple times, catching sight of the old logging road that ends right up at this point. I’m not sure if the road is gated off below, but presumably, you can drive or ride your bike right up to this point.

From here, it’s 1 mile to the peak. There’s a couple more switchbacks and a few steep pushes before a cedar shingled building comes into view. During World War II this was a lookout station keeping the northwest safe from invading Japanese warplanes. Its a great spot to look over Canada to the north, Storm King Mt and Aurora Ridge to the south and Lake Crescent below. Watch your step as there is a sheer drop on 3 sides of the point. Today there was a solid wall of fog sequestering the view, so Terry stated he’d have to come up on a better day to get the full effect.

The Lookout

Shortly after reaching the top, the wind and moisture was thoroughly chilling us, so we set off back down the mountain. Needless to say, the trip down was much quicker than the trip up.

An interesting little event; on on of the switchbacks I happened to glance down and I saw a carrot on the side of the path, but something about it caught my eye. I picked it up and noticed that it was just a regular little carrot, but it was half-eaten and remarkably, it had started taking root, growing a small tuft of new growth. It was pretty cool. I transplanted it  a little further off the path and next time I head up there, I’ll check on it.

Returning across the landslide was a little easier this time and soon we were back at the car. The trip up was about 2 hours 15 minutes. The trip down took 1 hour 10 minutes. It was an eye opening experience for both of us as far as our fitness level being atrophied over the winter. We need to get out more this year.

Here’s a Google Earth file of the path: (Pyramid Peak) (The path from the parking area to the east is driving, I forgot to turn of the tracking.)