The end of August is normally a great time to do The High Divide, but this year, our winter was so late, (we had snow in May), that it made for a really interesting trip.

We started out at about 9:00 and decided to go up the Heart Lake side first, knocking out the 5 mile section following the river. It was just a routine hike, gradually working our way up through the old growth fir and blueberry patches which were just about prime for the picking. There wasn’t much wildlife to be seen, but there were plenty of other hikers coming down from up above.

At the Sol Duc Campground we came across 4 mountain goats grazing near a group of tent that were set up. They let us get within 20 feet of them before strolling off. We walked a short ways away to refuel ourselves with some carbs before tackling the rocky stair case up to Heart Lake.

Shortly after the Sol Duc River campground we came across a marshy pond with some nearby peaks in the back ground. Gene wanted a picture so we stopped. Upon stepping off the trail we saw about 5 frogs jumping out of our way and into the pond. They were all over the place, probably a couple hundred lined the pool and everywhere you stepped they scramble to get out of the way. I believe that they were Cascades Frogs. Gene said that this is just a great big orgy pool for them.

Checking out the frogs

The approach to Heart Lake is a killer. If you aren’t used to it or aren’t prepared, it can really take you by surprise. Large rocky steps prevent you from half-stepping, forcing you to step all the way up or not at all. It’s something else.

Heart Lake outlet

Before long, though, you come up over a rise and there lies the lake, snow-fed and ice cold. Step over to the stream and splash your face, it feels awesome. From this level you cant see what gives the lake its name, but continue up the trail and looking down from above it’s obvious: It’s shaped like a heart.

It was above the lake that we  got the first taste of snow. climbing hils in the snow is bad enough, but this snow was melting just enough to make the first inch on the top soft and almost slushy. The going was slow and aggravating and we had at least 2 miles of this to look forward to.

Snow going

The divide itself is the apex of this hike. Running east-west it divides the Hoh and Sol Duc watersheds. Looking south you see Mt. Olympus and the mighty Blue Glacier. It’s truly amazing.

Mt Olympus

Finally after trudging through the snow we reached the top of the divide; It was all downhill from here. Past the spur to the top of Bogachiel Peak and past the junction to Hoh Lake you come to one heck of a series of switchbacks. There’s only about 3 of them but it’s steep as heck. Today it was covered with snow as well. Jerry, being the lightweight agile fellow that he is took off across the snow field and was at the first switchback when suddenly we heard a couple choice words from Gene along with the sound of canvas sliding on snow. I looked up and there he was, sliding down the hill, snow was flying to the sides of him like a Bayliner plowing through the water.

There was a moment of  ”Oh shit!”, but I quickly realized that he would reach the trail below if he kept going. He kept going. Jerry shouted out, “That’s one way to cut out the switchbacks”. I couldn’t think of anything funny to say, so I just watched helplessly, wishing I could have gotten this on film.

Here's the snow bank gene slid down

Well, he finally caught a tree and was hanging there about 3 or 4 feet over the trail below. We heard a whimper come from somewhere down below. Gene said it was a marmot, but we couldn’t be certain.

Once he regained his composure, took a mental inventory of his limbs and other assorted body parts that he might have left behind, we continued.  The only casualty was his sunglasses. There was no finding them in the thick brush and he decided to leave them behind.

Most of the remainder of the trail was clear. There were patches of snow above Deer Lake, however. Going downhill on the snow is MUCH more enjoyable than climbing it. We were running and sliding and having a good ol’ time when suddenly, we rounded a corner and there was a shapely young lady in a bikini up in the snow getting some sun. Naturally, when faced with the unexpected up in the mountains, all trace of suaveness escapes you and the best you can do is “Uh, hi.” Gene managed to get out a “Just do your thing…” and we continued on hurriedly.

The remainder of the trip was uneventful. We stopped at Deer Lake to refill some water bottles and then tackled the final stretch: about 3 miles down a rocky trail, picking our way over rocks and boulder that look like they’d be more at home on a river bottom. Gene, not used to this sort of thing was getting angry at the rocks. I could see it in his face, he HATED them. He swore that a few of them reached up through his boot and punctured the soles of his feet. We had to stop occasionally to let him calm himself.

Before long, though, we reached the falls and the throng of tourists ever present there, and quickly covered the last mile to the truck. Those beers tasted wonderful.

Full Album of the trip

As many times as I have done The High Divide and passed the trail that leads down into the Seven Lakes Basin, I have never actually gone down into it. So, I packed my fishing pole, checked the weather forecast, (it called for rain), and set out super early so that I would have enough time to do everything I wanted.

I hit the trail at 5:30 in the morning. It was just getting light and I could just make out the trail without a flashlight. I wanted to get to Deer Lake before it got too light and the fish had eaten their fill. It’s about 4 miles up to the lake and I made it in about an hour and a half. The sun was just lighting up the tops of the hills around Deer lake and I was beginning to think that the weatherman got it wrong again. Oh well, I don’t mind it when he says it’s going to rain and it doesn’t.

Brook Trout from Deer Lake

I walked around to the back side of the lake where the stream feeds it. I have always had my best luck at the mouths of streams. I figure it’s because it feed the lakes with fresh water and food and bugs as well.  There’s a little gravel bar poking out into the lake that I just couldn’t reach without getting wet, so I took off my boots and socks, slopped through the boggy grassy area and came out onto the bar.

There’s nothing more annoying while you are trying to enjoy a peaceful, quiet morning fishing for mountain trout than a fish that swallows a treble hook and ends up dying from getting torn up trying to get it out. I have cut off 2 of the 3 hooks on all my spinners, and on most of them even pinched the barbs down on them. It paid off today. The fish were ferocious. The first one I caught I thought was twice as big as it really was. But in reality it was only about 8 or 9 inches long. He took the hook quite a ways down his throat, but thanks to the barbless single hook it slipped right out and he was able to swim away without any damage.  They were slow to bite, but when they did they were fighters. It was fun.

Fields of Heather

After about 45 minutes in the water, I called it quits, dried off my feet, put on my extra set of socks and set off up towards Lunch Lake. From Deer Lake it’s about 4 more miles, nearly all uphill but the flowers were in full bloom which made it a little more bearable. Red heather, yellow heather, lupine,  bear grass, avalanche lilies, indian paintbrush, subalpine spiraea, cascade azalea (a type of rhododendron), tiger lilies, and several others were present a various points along  the way. Red mountain heather dominated the landscape though.

Above Deer Lake, just above the area called “the potholes” is a switchbacked, rocky climb that for some reason, I dread more than any other section on this whole trail. It’s really not that bad, but it just seems to go on forever. This time, however, it wasn’t as bad as I remember. It’s probably because I’m in better shape than I have been in years, and also, the Red Mountain Heather was thick. I have never seen it so thick and colorful.

On the top of that hill the trail levels out a bit and turns into a softer, less rocky forest trail. It follows along the south side of the ridge and goes in and out of the forest; the clear spots offering views down into the valley and to the hillside on the far side. Snow fields fill the low spots on the opposite side year round and if you are lucky, mountain goats and an occasional black bear can be seen. In one section of this part of the trail, the smell of elk filled the air. On previous trips I have seen the herd in the valley below, but have never smelled them this distinctly. I was sure that they would bust out of the brush at any moment, spooked by my presence, but I never saw them.

Lunch Lake From Above

Finally around 10:00 I reached the trail down to the basin. There’s a beautiful little viewpoint at the top, just before the descent that a group was taking the opportunity to take some pictures. I did too. As soon as I began dropping down the trail I knew that it was going to be a pain to get back up out of there when I left: the trail was steep and rocky, but it was only about a half mile down, and it went by quickly. On the way down I passed a family that had camped at the lake that night and now the 2 kids with them were showing their displeasure at being loaded down with gear having to climb this sadistic grade. I let them know that once they reached the top of this one, it was all downhill from there.

Upon reaching the lake, I immediately noticed a boulder field on the uphill side that looked perfect for fishing. I made my way over and perched on a promising looking rock and cast my line. It was at this precise moment that my head started to burn. I rubbed it and felt a mass of little bumps and as I removed my hand, about 5 mosquitoes fell onto the rock around me. Those little bastards were thick in the air.  I couldn’t believe that I forgot my bug spray. I grabbed a spare shirt and covered my head and neck which helped quite a bit but they were on my arms now too. It’s a pain in the ass to try and fish and swat mosquitoes at the same time. I checked my first aid kit to see it there was anything I could use. The closest thing I could find were some disinfecting wipes. I figured perhaps the chemicals in it would be hostile to their noses. I couldn’t tell much difference. I think I left about 3 pounds of dead mosquitoes on that rock, and to top it all off, I didn’t catch anything at that spot.

Lunch Lake Brook Trout

Continuing around the lake counter-clockwise the shore offer many great areas that would be great for swimming or fishing. It drops off quickly and the water is beautifully clear. But I didn’t have much luck. There was one spot where there was a boulder half in the water. I climbed up onto it and as soon as I poked my head over, I saw a fish dart off into the deep. No luck there either. Finally on the side opposite the trail and campsites, there’s a shore made of large gravel. That’s where I had my first bite. But they are crafty little fish and that was the only bite. On down the shore a ways I finally hooked one. This one fought like it was twice as big as it really was. Also, using my ultra-light pole made it even more of a blast taking them in.

Spinners did ok, but I would imagine that if you had some live bait, or PowerBait, that you could knock them dead and make one heck of a meal out of these guys.

I noticed a sign pointing down a hill towards Clear Lake. I figured what the heck, I’m here to explore, let’s explore. Half way down to the lake I was already regretting it. It was steeper and rockier than the trail down to Lunch Lake. Oh well, I was committed to the cause and kept going. Upon reaching Clear Lake, I noticed it was a lot less clear than the Other lakes in the range. It had that brownish tinge to it and appeared quite stagnant. It was lunch time, but I didn’t want to hang out here and eat; It just wasn’t that inspiring. So I trucked on back up the hill, my legs weakening from hunger, but before long I made it back to Lunch Lake and had lunch.

Yellow Mountain Heather

I had some bread in a hard container, some habanero cheese from our trip to Tillamook last week, and some ham. Two sandwiches later I was stuffed and ready to go. By that time the clouds were rolling in and it was cooling down considerably. The weather man did call for afternoon showers and it looked like he was going to be right afterall. I told myself to take it easy on the way back up. Normally I push hard to get the heart going and sweat flowing. Today I held myself back to keep my self dry. I wasn’t in the mood to get chilled like that. So I took it easy coming up out of the basin and before i knew it I was at the top of the hill, crossing the last patch of snow and beginning the downhill slide back to Deer Lake.

I must have eaten too much because my gut started growling at me and I felt like I was going to lose it. I slowed down some more to try and let it settle. A rain drop hit me.  And another. I pulled my hat out of my pack to keep my face and neck dry and before long I was back above Deer Lake coming down that stretch of trail to the potholes. Around this time I started passing groups of people on their way up to the basin and other campsites in the area. I thought  to myself they sure are getting late starts, but who am I to make those judgments?

Red Mountain Heather

At Deer Lake I recharged again, drank a red bull that the wife had got for me and stretched out a bit in preparation for the final 4 miles down the hill. By now the sun had popped out again so I took off my long sleeves and hat, I never wear long sleeves if I don’t have to.

I tried taking it easy down the hill, but old habits die hard and before I knew it I was skipping along, bouncing over the rocks and working on my footwork. I passed several more groups of people coming up the hill, wished them luck with their trips and kept on cruising.

I reached the car at 4:30. I had originally scheduled to meet up with the family at the Hot Springs at 5:00 so this was about perfect. I drove down to the resort, bought an overpriced 6 pack and had a couple beers before the wife and kids showed up for a relaxing evening in the pools. It felt so good. I could have hung out in there for hours, but dinner time was approaching and we left there about 7:00, had some burgers and went home. I was so beat that we decided to clean up in the morning. The rest of the night was meant for relaxing.

I’ve been looking over my maps lately, trying to find any trails I haven’t yet explored. I know there are a lot of them, and a multitude of options really makes it difficult to decide on any one in particular. However, after much pondering and poring over my maps I decided on a 17 mile loop starting near the Olympic Hot Springs up to Boulder Lake, up the Happy Lake Ridge and back down. I’ve done more than that in a day and figured it would be a piece of cake.

Appleton Pass Trailhead

To get there, follow the signs to the Olympic Hot Springs. Take the Elwha River Road past Lake Mills and the dam up another 5 miles of narrow winding, rough road to the Appleton Pass trailhead.

The first 2.2 miles or so, to the hot springs,  is nearly all paved. It makes for easy walking and this area is extremely popular. When I got there at 7:30 in the morning, the parking lot was packed. I’m typically a solitary kind of guy, so seeing all the cars just made me nervous that I was going to be hiking with crowds of people all around me. Luckily that wasn’t quite the case.

I set off at 8:00 sharp and by 8:45 was at the hot springs. It’s kind of cool down there. The ground is bright green from the algae thriving in the sulphur rich water and if you like the smell of rotten eggs, you’ll be right at home here. The pools aren’t that spectacular, about the size of a large hot tub, but they are quite popular none-the-less.

Making my way past the springs, I saw where most of the occupants of the many vehicles at the trail head were; the campgrounds above the springs. There are quite a few great little tent sites. Flat grassy meadows are all around and there are several “bear wires” set up to keep food out of reach of scavengers.

Through the campground is where the trail really begins. Pavement ends and the narrower dirt path that I know and love starts. Shortly, I came to the Appleton Pass / Boulder Lake junction. The sign there said I had 2.8 miles to go before reaching the lake. I had studied the topo map before heading out and it didn’t appear to be that bad of a climb. It wasn’t too bad, but it was steeper than I imagined. The one good thing about it, though, is that it was nearly 100% smooth dirt trail. very rarely was there any root wads or rocky shelfs to step over.

Red Spotted Garter Snake

By now the sun was rising higher and I was enjoying the walk immensely. I was encouraged by the amount of wildlife that I was spooking off the trail. I figured I was the first to come through here in a little while. A good sized red-spotted garter snake shot off to the side of the trail and under a rock. He was gone before I could get my camera out. Then, about 20 feet up the trail, another, much smaller one moved out of my way. I was able to quickly snap a shot before he disappeared.

Shortly after this is when I met the first group of hikers coming down from the lake. I stepped aside to let them pass, as they were quite loaded down with gear… It looked like they all had enough gear to last a week, but they were just up there for the night they said.

Appleton Pass area

Up up up the trail climbed. I started catching glimpses through the trees of snow peaked Appleton Pass, and wished that I could play in the snow on my birthday. After traversing a couple downed trees along the way I met with another couple people. They, too, were loaded to the hilt. One guy had his hatchet strapped to his belt, and packs stuffed with what appeared to be 45 or 50 pounds of gear.  They too, were just up for the weekend.

It was amazing to see peoples varying styles. I remember growing up, my parents would take us out for a week at a time and we were quite comfortable the whole time, (as far as food and shelter, etc goes) with just 30-40 pound packs, and here are whole groups of people killing themselves with massive loads for an over-nighter.

At 10:45 I made it to the lake. About 1/8 mile before the lake snow patches covered the ground along the trail. I love it. The lake is nice sized, fed from the snow above and subsequently ice cold. Oh how good it felt. There’s a little peninsula jutting out into the water where I sat down and enjoyed the sun for a while. There were about 5 groups of people taking down tents and campsites scattered about.

Boulder Lake

There was a foot path leading to the back side of the lake where the stream comes down from Boulder Peak and feeds the lake. It was some of the coldest, freshest water I have ever dunked my head into.

Now, you know how parents use the bogey man to scare their kids into behaving? Well, growing up my bogey man was Giardia, or ‘Beaver Fever’. I NEVER drink wild water. I will pack a gallon of water on my back rather than risk getting sick out there. Well, today I broke that rule. I could pretty much see the water source, couldn’t see any sign of marmots or other wildlife in the area and figured “Why the hell not?” Oh man how good it tasted. By this time my Camelbak was warming up and just lacked that crisp refreshment. This snow creek was awesome.

Red Mountain Heather

Surrounding the lake were many types of flowers. Avalanche Lilies dominated though. Growing in the rocks around the lake were those pink evergreen Red Mountain Heather you see to the right here. If I’m wrong about the identification, please let me know, that was the closest I could come up with.

I brought my fishing pole with me. I bring it everywhere, you never know when it will come in handy. I hooked it together, tied on one of my favorit spinners and tried my luck at the mouth of the snow stream. After 15 minutes of casting with no luck, I called it quits. I didn’t really expect to get much if anything. I didn’t see any sign of fish, and it was high noon, just about the worst time to go fishing anywhere. I re-packed the fishing pole and set off back down the trail.

Avalanche Lilies

I said earlier that the plan was to do the loop up over Happy Lake Ridge. Well, I liked it at the lake so much, I had spent an hour and a half here, didn’t feel like heading up the mountain any more and I was kind of anxious to get home; the wife had promised to take me out tonight. Additionally, my back was acting up and starting to tell me that it wasn’t too happy with the days events. I really wish that my back would stop dictating the conditions of my activity. It’s starting to piss me off.

At 12:15 I was back on the trail. I met up with a guy heading out as well. We got to talking and discovered that we are in the (sort of) same line of work. He deals with psychiatric patients, many of whom do not wish to be where they are. We got to talking about working with crazy people, and the inmates too. It helped the time pass. After about a half hour he left me to my own. He had to take a break as he was packing quite a load and I only about 15 pounds or so. We parted ways and I was off again in solitude.

Descending a steep trail has disadvantages of its’ own. It’s not difficult like ascending is, but the dynamics are different on your body. Without good shoes and foot care, your toenails can start getting hurt. My nephew, once, actually lost his big toe-nails after a particularly brutal slog.  Gravity pulls you and without proper form, the jarring can really do a number on your back and hips. Keeping your knees bent to absorb the shock eventually your thighs begin to feel it. That isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but once you get back to the car, oh how you feel it. It’s a good kind of hurt, I think. A satisfying soreness that lets you know you did something good.

Well, I reached the bottom of the hill without incident. It took 30 minutes less to get down than up, imagine that. Back through the hot springs campground, most of the campers had pulled up stakes and left. Then back onto the pavement. For some reason, by this time my back was screaming at me. I had never hurt this much after a hike, in fact, normally I feel better after a hike. Not today. The last 2 miles was a pain. I kept going though. One foot in front of the other, and at 2:20 in the afternoon, I was back at my car.

When I’m out on the trail, I like to post Twitter and Facebook updates along the way. I like to let people know what I’m doing and show off this wonderful area in which I live. That was impossible today. From the trail head on, I had zero signal. I still took pictures with my phone and drafted updates to be sent once I could, and about a mile down the road, as I rounded a corner, poof, full service. I parked and uploaded all that I had. If this is something that you would be interested in, be sure to check out my Twitter and Facebook pages.

View the full photo gallery here

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