The end of August is normally a great time to do The High Divide, but this year, our winter was so late, (we had snow in May), that it made for a really interesting trip.

We started out at about 9:00 and decided to go up the Heart Lake side first, knocking out the 5 mile section following the river. It was just a routine hike, gradually working our way up through the old growth fir and blueberry patches which were just about prime for the picking. There wasn’t much wildlife to be seen, but there were plenty of other hikers coming down from up above.

At the Sol Duc Campground we came across 4 mountain goats grazing near a group of tent that were set up. They let us get within 20 feet of them before strolling off. We walked a short ways away to refuel ourselves with some carbs before tackling the rocky stair case up to Heart Lake.

Shortly after the Sol Duc River campground we came across a marshy pond with some nearby peaks in the back ground. Gene wanted a picture so we stopped. Upon stepping off the trail we saw about 5 frogs jumping out of our way and into the pond. They were all over the place, probably a couple hundred lined the pool and everywhere you stepped they scramble to get out of the way. I believe that they were Cascades Frogs. Gene said that this is just a great big orgy pool for them.

Checking out the frogs

The approach to Heart Lake is a killer. If you aren’t used to it or aren’t prepared, it can really take you by surprise. Large rocky steps prevent you from half-stepping, forcing you to step all the way up or not at all. It’s something else.

Heart Lake outlet

Before long, though, you come up over a rise and there lies the lake, snow-fed and ice cold. Step over to the stream and splash your face, it feels awesome. From this level you cant see what gives the lake its name, but continue up the trail and looking down from above it’s obvious: It’s shaped like a heart.

It was above the lake that we  got the first taste of snow. climbing hils in the snow is bad enough, but this snow was melting just enough to make the first inch on the top soft and almost slushy. The going was slow and aggravating and we had at least 2 miles of this to look forward to.

Snow going

The divide itself is the apex of this hike. Running east-west it divides the Hoh and Sol Duc watersheds. Looking south you see Mt. Olympus and the mighty Blue Glacier. It’s truly amazing.

Mt Olympus

Finally after trudging through the snow we reached the top of the divide; It was all downhill from here. Past the spur to the top of Bogachiel Peak and past the junction to Hoh Lake you come to one heck of a series of switchbacks. There’s only about 3 of them but it’s steep as heck. Today it was covered with snow as well. Jerry, being the lightweight agile fellow that he is took off across the snow field and was at the first switchback when suddenly we heard a couple choice words from Gene along with the sound of canvas sliding on snow. I looked up and there he was, sliding down the hill, snow was flying to the sides of him like a Bayliner plowing through the water.

There was a moment of  ”Oh shit!”, but I quickly realized that he would reach the trail below if he kept going. He kept going. Jerry shouted out, “That’s one way to cut out the switchbacks”. I couldn’t think of anything funny to say, so I just watched helplessly, wishing I could have gotten this on film.

Here's the snow bank gene slid down

Well, he finally caught a tree and was hanging there about 3 or 4 feet over the trail below. We heard a whimper come from somewhere down below. Gene said it was a marmot, but we couldn’t be certain.

Once he regained his composure, took a mental inventory of his limbs and other assorted body parts that he might have left behind, we continued.  The only casualty was his sunglasses. There was no finding them in the thick brush and he decided to leave them behind.

Most of the remainder of the trail was clear. There were patches of snow above Deer Lake, however. Going downhill on the snow is MUCH more enjoyable than climbing it. We were running and sliding and having a good ol’ time when suddenly, we rounded a corner and there was a shapely young lady in a bikini up in the snow getting some sun. Naturally, when faced with the unexpected up in the mountains, all trace of suaveness escapes you and the best you can do is “Uh, hi.” Gene managed to get out a “Just do your thing…” and we continued on hurriedly.

The remainder of the trip was uneventful. We stopped at Deer Lake to refill some water bottles and then tackled the final stretch: about 3 miles down a rocky trail, picking our way over rocks and boulder that look like they’d be more at home on a river bottom. Gene, not used to this sort of thing was getting angry at the rocks. I could see it in his face, he HATED them. He swore that a few of them reached up through his boot and punctured the soles of his feet. We had to stop occasionally to let him calm himself.

Before long, though, we reached the falls and the throng of tourists ever present there, and quickly covered the last mile to the truck. Those beers tasted wonderful.

Full Album of the trip

The other day I took off early in the morning to scoot on up to Lake Angeles. The weather was perfect, I was the first one on the trail and I enjoyed the solitude as long as I could.

Once I hit the lake, (about 2500 foot elevation gain in 3.5 miles), I found a patch of sun, layed my head down on my backpack and woke up two and a half hours later. It felt so good.

I spent the rest of the day exploring around the lake, napping here and there and then found a nice out of the way spot to curl up for the night. It was about perfect.

The week before at work was insane. We had a Navy Blackhawk helicopter make an emergency landing at our heli pad and then the next day two inmates attempted to escape, taking one of my friends hostage while the other smashed though the fence forcing one of our officers to shoot him. The insanity that followed was draining to the body and soul. People were stepping up and doing jobs that normally don’t get done by staff. We were doing laundry, making meals, hauling trash… Lock downs aren’t all that fun. We work harder than ever keeping the place running.

I had three days off and spending those two up in the mountains was the best thing that I could have done.

Sunday night I got home and went with the family up to a friends house for a barbecue and fireworks. I showed the kids how to make a simple snare and played a lot of fetch with the dogs. Good times were had by all.

Monday the 4th was a rare day in this area. Fourth of July in Forks is almost ALWAYS spent in the rain. This year sunburns were a common sight. It was nice.

I showed up to work on my Monday surprisingly refreshed and ready to go. Things still aren’t completely back to normal, but I thrive on chaos. We own this.

Well, after one hell of a week at work, I get a few days off. It wasn’t my normal shift, but I was working that morning when it all happened. I’m glad I was there to do whatever I could to help, I just wish I was closer so I could have helped more. I was on the other side of the walls and I could hear everything going on; It was the worst feeling in the world being so close yet so helpless.

Regardless, I’m going to get out in the hills and spend some much needed time outside, my cares and concerns left miles away.

I’m not sure exactly what I have planned, but that’s what I like. Just to be able to get in my car and start driving. Perhaps I can convince my wife to let me head out after work Friday and stay the night at the trailhead so I can get a nice early start. Maybe I’ll head up the Dosewallips, maybe see how far up the Royal Lake Basin I can get. Maybe see if I can spend the night at Lake Angeles. Who knows. I’ll keep you posted.